My favourite Peranakan Restaurant since 2006 until……
I’ve been a fan of Bibik Kathryn ever since I first wrote about Peramakan back in 2006, when they were just starting out as a humble eatery in Joo Chiat. Back then, it was a modest establishment, serving up authentic Nonya dishes that felt like you were eating in a Peranakan household. Those were the days before the TV series “The Little Nyonya,” and Peranakan restaurants were not as common as they are now. What made Peramakan truly special was Bibik Kathryn herself—a rare individual who grew up in a traditional Peranakan household, spending countless hours in the kitchen, perfecting the time-honored recipes that would become the backbone of the restaurant.
As word spread about the lovingly crafted dishes, Peramakan’s popularity soared. They soon relocated to the Keppel Club and went on to open a second location in Katong. They had always been my go-to place for Peranakan cuisine until they started “Tingkat Peramakan,” which marked a departure from their original charm.
Back to the good old days!
The good news is that Peramakan is back! Actually, they resurrected the old Peramakan almost a year ago, but I only recently discovered it! The restaurant on Owen Street used to be “Tingkat Peramakan,” but they’ve decided to bring back the old menu, with Bibik Kathryn at the helm. Dining there felt like I was transported back to the old Joo Chiat restaurant where I first fell in love with Peranakan food!
Review of the Food
We held a Mid Week Makan session at the restaurant and here are the dishes we tried!
The Last Shall Be First
Rempah Udang has always had a special place in my heart ever since I watched Zhor Zhor enjoying the snack in “Little Nonya.” So, even though it was served after the meal, I need to highlight it first! I was so captivated by it that I asked Bibik Kathryn to teach me how to make it, and we recorded that session in this video back in 2009. Kathryn made Rempah Udang specially for our Makan Session, and it was simply delicious! Just take a look at the photo at the top of this post and tell me you don’t feel like you need to have one right now! 就是只可味道! (This is just the flavor that I love!) 4.5/5
We continue with the Review….
What struck me about the Bakwan Kepiting is how nicely molded the meatballs were! Each one was a perfect sphere! The meatballs are delicious, but given the price of crabs nowadays, it is understandable that there wasn’t a lot of crab meat in them! 4/5
I’ve always enjoyed Peramakan’s ayam buah keluak, though my wife still prefers the dish in its original form rather than having the kernel scooped out, mixed with sambal, and then stuffed back in. Even so, I think they offer one of the best versions of this dish around. 4.5/5
Their beef rendang has always been one of their must-order dishes. Kathryn always cooks the shin beef till it is fork tender and collagen has all turned to jelly but not so soft until it becomes dry. It is always a joy to eat this whenever we are at Peramakan. 4.5/5
Babi Tohay is one of my must-order dishes at Peramakan, though it’s only available seasonally. The heart of this dish is the fermented krill, which Kathryn ferments herself. It’s a lesser-known Peranakan specialty that I believe deserves more attention. If you’re interested in making it yourself, I’ve posted a recipe with detailed instructions on fermenting the krill. It’s an incredibly moreish dish that pairs perfectly with rice! However, I must admit that on this occasion, the Babi Tohay didn’t quite have its usual level of umami.4.25/5
The sotong masak hitam is lovely. The squid were big and fresh and cooked perfectly such that it is still very tender! 4.25/5
Unfortunately, the Chap Chye wasn’t as good as what I remembered it to be. The cabbage lacked that special sweetness and was a tad mushy. 3.5/5
This was my first time trying the Ikan Tempra at Peramakan, and while the fish was very fresh, the tangy sauce left me wanting more. It had all the right elements but lacked that extra depth or zing that would make me order it again. I had high hopes for this dish, but it didn’t quite hit the mark like the other dishes. 4/5
I am not sure what happened to the cendol. It used to be much better. Coconut milk and gula melaka lacked that punch they had in the past. Not sure what happened! 3.5/5
Conclusion
I’m thrilled that Peramakan has brought back the old menu that made them so popular in the past! With Bibik Kathryn at the helm, this is one of those spots you can confidently take your overseas guests to for an introduction to authentic Nonya cuisine.
