Remember your last trip to Japan when you had to wind your way through the labyrinthine alleys, past meticulously tended gardens, until you stumbled upon a quaint little eatery? Can you recall the anticipation rising as you brush aside the noren and step into the snug and intimate sushi counter to be greeted with the subtle aroma of the ocean?
Unfortunately, special sushi spaces like that are not common in Singapore where you are more likely to find your sushi bar in a hotel or shopping centre! But fret not, there is a secluded little Sushi counter that is set in a Zen Garden, in a quiet corner of Dempsey Hill where you can re-enact that sacred sushi moment!
I have walked past Sushi Sato a few times and have always wondered what it was like inside. So, when I got a media invite to experience their new omakase lunch menu starting at $168++, I was quick to accept. High-end sushi omakase prices have been steadily increasing over the last few years, so it is welcome news that Sushi Sato has decided to buck the trend!
Sushi Master in action
The man behind the sushi counter is Chef Yuji Sato, who arrived in Singapore in 2013 to join the team of chefs setting up Sushi Hashida. A native of Obihiro in Hokkaido, he went as a teenager to Tokyo to train as a sushi chef before returning to Hokkaido to helm his restaurant. Chef brings a brand of Edomae Sushi to the table with seafood that is sourced from both Hokkaido and Toyosu market.
In the heart of the intimate restaurant lies the 9-seat counter fashioned with 200-year-old hinoki wood, befitting a sushi restaurant of this caliber. The elegant centerpiece beckons guests to gather around the sushi chef as he performs his craft.
The Shari, i.e., sushi rice, is a crucial distinguishing factor of a sushi restaurant. Chef Sato uses a blend of three Japanese red vinegars, one of which is specially aged to flavor Tsuyahime rice imported from Yamagata Prefecture. He has managed to create a balance of sweet, salty, and tang that suits my Singaporean palate perfectly.
Each piece of sushi is molded by the Sushi master himself. They are perfectly packed so that the rice clings together just enough that it doesn’t break apart when you pick it up. But shatters into its individual grains when you pop it into your mouth. The temperature differential between the rice and the topping is also finely tuned. You still feel the warmth of the rice while the seafood remains cool, crisp and lively.
Let’s have a look at the new omakase lunch set.
Review of the $168++ Omakase Lunch
Appetizers
Chawanmushi with seaweed
Our sushi course started with chawanmushi that is topped with a layer of aonori (seaweed) sauce and pieces of scallop and sweet chestnuts hidden underneath.
Konbu noodles with ponzu sauce
We were then presented with konbu noodles which were made in house by boiling finely shredded konbu for hours till the agar is extracted. The noodles are then cooled and served with ponzu sauce.
10 Piece Nigiri Sushi Course
- Maguro Tzuke
Fresh bluefin tuna marinated with soy sauce. Chef explained that they only use chilled tuna and all the seafood they serve is wild-caught.
2. Botan Ebi
The live Botan ebi was sweet and crunchy. We didn’t get the rest of the Botan Ebi though. Some restaurants would deep fry them and serve as an extra dish.
3. Tai
Again the seabream is wild caught and not the farm bred version. The flesh is nice and crisp!
4. Shima Aji
Wild caught striped jack with a nice amount of fat!
5. Hokkigai
Sourced from Hokkaido. The surf clam was slapped just before presenting it to us. It was to demonstrate that the flesh was still “live”.
6. Chutoro
Melt in your mouth medium-fat bluefin tuna.
7. Sayori
Fresh half beak. The flesh was lovely and crisp with fishy aroma which shows the freshness of the fish.
8. Sumi Ika
The Japanese Spineless cuttlefish was lovely with a sweet and pastey flesh
9. Otoro (Shimafuri)
We had a lovely otoro harvested from the kama area which has a lovely snowflake marbling without the sinews.
10. Uni (bafun)
Sweet Hokkaido uni served gunkan style with special nori that has just been toasted.
Negitoro Hand Roll
The nori was lightly toasted over charcoal before the roll was constructed and literally handed to us by chef!
Tuna Roll
Tuna scrapings with rice, pickles and wrapped in nori. We noticed that chef is quite attentive to his guests. He may reduce the amount of rice if he feels you are feeling a little overwhelmed by this stage.
Fish Miso Soup
Finally, we had a light soup to warm the stomach before dessert.
Dessert
Edo style Tamago
Chef’s version is light, airy, sweet and umami. It is made with scallop, botan ebi and fish paste. A pleasantly seamless way to transition from the savouries to the sweets.
Housemade Roasted Soy Bean Icecream
Lovely way to end a superb sushi course.
Conclusion
An excellent place if you are looking for an exquisite sushi meal. It is especially lovely because of its secluded location in Dempsey! The seafood is all wild caught and there is a special emphasis on Hokkaido seafood. 4.5/5
