Anshun Fish Soup is as old-school as you can get, the kind of Teochew-style soup you’d imagine being served along the streets of Swatow to men spotting Manchurian hair styles squatting on wooden benches. It’s a taste of a time when fish were abundant and food was simple and unadorned. I’m not exaggerating when I say it’s the most stripped-down version of fish soup I’ve encountered in all my years of blogging. The broth is brewed purely from fresh batang fish bones and blue ginger — no pork bones, no dried sole fish, no soy beans, and emphatically, no MSG or stock powder. It just gets a dash of fish sauce for seasoning at the end. Even the fish slices are not marinated or velveted with corn starch. It’s fish soup in its most basic and unembellished form which I made the mistake of adding evaporated milk when given the option when ordering.
The hawker behind the stall, Mr Sng Hoo Boon, 65, is every bit the typical Teochew Ah Hia—which really shouldn’t come as a surprise given his purist approach to fish soup. His wife hails from Anson, a town in Perak, Malaysia, which is how the stall got its name. The couple first started serving their no-frills fish soup back in 2002 at Zion Road Blk 91 (in the same coffee shop as Siang Hee), where they stayed for nine years before moving to Toa Payoh Blk 206 for the next decade. Three years ago, they relocated again to their current spot in Hougang and has been gaining quite a following on social media.
The secret to this stall’s popularity lies in the quality—and quantity—of the fish they use every day. They source top-grade Batang from Surabaya (you can read more about it in my Fish Files), and they don’t skimp on it. With so much fish bones going into the pot daily, the broth ends up naturally rich and flavourful. The fish itself is smooth and tender, even without brining or egg white velveting.
I was also pleasantly surprised by their crispy fried fish, which is made from fresh threadfin! While most other stalls opt for the budget-friendly frozen dory (patin), it really takes a fish soup purist to insist on using a premium fish like threadfin for their fritters—and it definitely makes a difference.
So, how did I find the fish soup? I’ll admit, I’m used to a more flavourful broth. Personally, I love the depth that comes from fried sole fish and the added touches like the crunchy egg floss you get at places like Thai Seng Fish Soup. That said, I have to give credit where it’s due—this bowl is perfect for those who appreciate the clean, original flavours of fresh fish without all the extras. It’s the best way to savour the flavour of fresh fish. 4.25/5 Do remember to order a side of crispy fried fish ($5) to go with your fish soup! I think it’s worth it!
For those who enjoy a little more spice, they also have a Tom Yum version which is made from their own recipe using fresh Thai herbs. It isn’t quite at the same level as Northern Thai, but ok if you like something with more kick. 3.5/5
Conclusion
A bowl of fish soup for purists who are looking for the original taste of fresh fish! Tucked away in a quiet, unassuming coffeeshop—so not happening that even the birds won’t build a nest there,—this stall draws an unexpected crowd. So don’t be surprised to see a long line of devoted fish soup lovers patiently waiting for their fishsoup fix!
