Introduction
Spain is one of my favorite destinations in Europe. The food is amazing, the people are friendly, and the restaurants stay open late due to their siesta in the afternoon, reopening at 8pm or even 9 pm. This allows you to stretch your tapas trail from noon till evening before sitting down for a proper dinner at night!
This trip was casually organized by a friend, so it wasn’t a fully planned food tour. Despite that, we enjoyed some excellent meals, which I’ll share in this post.
Barcelona
We landed in Barcelona and traveled to the Basque region via Tarazona, staying one night in Zaragoza and the next four nights in Es. From there, we visited Bilbao and San Sebastian before returning to Barcelona. We also crossed the border to visit Lourdes, stayed two nights in Toulouse, and then crossed back into Spain and Barcelona.
One crucial tip: all tourist spots now require tickets, so you need to book your spots at least a few days in advance. Some places are still free, but you must reserve a ticket. The last time my friend visited, a decade ago, tickets weren’t necessary, so he assumed that it was still the same. We ended up scrambling to find tickets at the last minute. You have been warned!
Barcelona Eats
We had lunch at Puertecillo before our tour of Sagrada Familia. Fortunately, we arrived just before they opened because the place fills up quickly! It’s a casual eatery where you select your seafood at the front, pay, and then wait for them to call you. After you finish, you’re expected to return your dishes as well. The seafood was fresh, very well-prepared, and reasonably priced, especially considering the touristy location. Highly recommended! Make sure to get at least two gambas per person. The octopus and squid are also excellent, but you can skip the cold crabs. 4.25/5
Puertecillo Sagrada Familia
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We had planned to embark on a tapas trail, but the first few dishes we tried at Tapeo were so good that we abandoned our plan and ordered more items from their menu. Yes, this place is that amazing! You must try their grilled leeks, oxtail, pork ribs, and fideuà. The restaurant is run by a Filipino crew, and they serve excellent food! If there’s one place in Barcelona that I’ll return to, it’s this one! 4.5/5
Tapeo
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San Sebastian
They say the best food in Spain is found in San Sebastián, and they are not wrong! Although we spent only one day exploring the old town, we managed to eat at several pintxo bars that truly proved the point.
To make room for more delicious food, we needed to burn off some calories! One of the best ways to do this is to hike up to Jesusen Bihotza Estatua. The hike rewards you with a panoramic view of San Sebastián, and by the time you come back down, you’ll be ready to eat again!
Jesusen Bihotza Estatua
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Pinxtos Trail
1. Bar Sport
One of the best pintxos we had was found at Bar Sport. At first, I thought this was a typical sports bar, but it is not. We had an excellent sea urchin pintxo, which was a creamy pumpkin soup with sea urchin, and also a superb foie gras pintxo, which had a generous mound of foie gras atop a slice of crispy French toast. One of the things that set this pintxo bar apart is the crispness of the toast! If we had planned several days in San Sebastián, I would have tried more of their other items! 4.5/5
Bar Sport
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2. Bar Nestor
When we arrived at Bar Nestor, we felt like we had hit the jackpot by being the third party in the queue. We had heard that they served the best tortilla, but it sells out fast, so we eagerly waited outside the shutters for them to open. To our dismay, we discovered that we weren’t at the front of the queue. Apparently, others had already arrived earlier to put their names down! So, unfortunately, we missed out on the tortilla. Thankfully, we were still offered a table outside the restaurant where we could order their signature items: tomato salad, piquillo peppers, and steak.
I found the tomato salad to be quite average, but the peppers were very good! Their steak that is made from Rubia Gallega beef, had an excellent beefy flavour. Just be aware that their medium rare is what I would consider rare or even blue in the center. So you might want to order medium instead! Otherwise, you might find yourself chewing on barely cooked meat! 4.25/5
Bar Nestor
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3. Txepetxa
While waiting for our food at Bar Nestor, my friend decided to grab some pintxos from Txepetxa, which is just a stone’s throw away. This bar specializes in anchovies! So if you have a taste for fishy fish, this is the place for you! As for me, I finally had to admit that, since the best anchovies are found here, they are really just not my thing! 4/5
Txepetxa
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4. La Vina for the Original Basque Burnt Cheesecake
While in the Basque Country, one of the must-try delicacies is the famous Basque Burnt Cheesecake, and what better place to sample it than the restaurant where it was invented! Yes, it was here at La Vina that Chef Santiago Rivera first introduced this renowned cheesecake in the 1980s.
After finally securing a place to sit, we indulged in a cup of coffee paired with the cheesecake. It was smooth, creamy, and indeed a delightful burnt cheesecake. Though not mind-blowingly spectacular, it’s still worth a visit if only to experience the origin of this iconic dessert firsthand! 4/5
La Vina
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Walking off calories at Gaztelugatxe
Located 35km from Bilbao, Gaztelugatxe is a picturesque island on the Basque coastline, connected to the mainland by a stone bridge. Its name translates to “castle rock” in Basque, owing to the small hermitage perched atop the island’s rugged cliffs. The hermitage, dedicated to John the Baptist, dates back to the 10th century and holds religious significance for locals and visitors alike.
The island’s unique landscape, with its steep stairs leading up to the hermitage, has captured the imagination of many, including filmmakers. In the seventh season of Game of Thrones, Gaztelugatxe served as the setting for Dragonstone, the ancestral seat of House Targaryen.
The hike to the hermitage and back takes approximately 3-4 hours, rewarding visitors with stunning views of the coastline and the Bay of Biscay. Due to its popularity, access to Gaztelugatxe is now regulated, and tickets must be booked online in advance, so make sure you plan ahead! 4.5/5
San Juan of Gaztelugatxe
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BILBAO
The reason to visit Bilbao is undoubtedly the Guggenheim Museum. The Museum was nothing short of awe-inspiring. From the moment we approached the iconic titanium-clad structure, we were captivated by its avant-garde design and artistic presence! Due to time constraints, we only managed to capture shots outside the museum which was already quite awesome.
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao
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1. El Gobo
Nestled in the heart of Bilbao, this charming restaurant captures the essence of traditional flavors while adding a modern twist. Like many such establishments in Spain, it is perpetually crowded during mealtimes. Thus, choosing your pintxos becomes an exercise in self-control. When you finally reach the front of the queue, the temptation to select numerous options is strong, ensuring you don’t miss out on any gems! A must-try dish is their Spider Crab Gratin (top left), boasting a rich crustacean flavor encased in a smooth and creamy sauce! 4.25/5
El Globo
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2. Café Iruña
Café Iruña is a historic and vibrant establishment renowned for its charming ambiance and exquisite interior, adorned with intricate Moorish tiles and beautiful arches. Established in 1903, it offers a blend of traditional Basque cuisine and Spanish tapas. The popular dish here is Moorish lamb skewers which everyone seems to order. It was mildly spiced and tender. You won’t be missing too much if you skipped it if the queues are too long but worth a try just because it is one of those landmark eateries. 3.5/5
Café Iruña
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3. Gaztandegi
Gaztandegi is a haven for cheese enthusiasts and food lovers alike. Specializing in an impressive variety of artisanal cheeses, this charming shop showcases the rich dairy traditions of the Basque Country. From creamy Idiazabal to tangy blue cheeses, Gaztandegi offers a curated selection that you can just pick up and try.
Gaztandegi
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