Fans of the famed but now-defunct Wild Rocket will be delighted to hear that Chef Willin Low has returned to the local dining scene with a fresh new concept. His latest venture, Pastaro, is a casual yet innovative eatery that brings his signature Mod-Sin (Modern Singaporean) flavours to the world of freshly made pasta.
Since the closure of Wild Rocket, it’s been some time since we’ve seen Willin in action. In the interim, he’s been busy running his intimate restaurant, also called Roketto, in Niseko, Japan. There’s where he spends the winter months cooking for Roketto’s guests while honing his snowboarding skills.
Located in a quirky spot above CS Fresh supermarket at Chancery Court, Pastaro exudes a cozy charm. The restaurant is operated by Willin’s long-time crew. Many of whom have been with him since the early Wild Rocket days. Their long-time camaraderie can be experienced in every dish.
As its name suggests, Pastaro is all about pasta. It features a variety of fresh, inventive creations paired with small plates that make for perfect small bites. The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming. It offers diners a chance to indulge in bold, creative flavors without putting too much strain on the wallet. It’s the kind of place where you can satisfy your culinary cravings and discover new favourites in a laid-back, unpretentious setting.
Review of the Dishes
Har Cheong Pork Belly is one of those dishes I simply can’t resist ordering whenever it pops up on a menu. While the combination of pork and prawns may seem unconventional in Western cuisine, it’s a beloved pairing in many local dishes. Such dishes like prawn mee soup and hae zhor (prawn rolls). Extra magic happens when the prawns are fermented into a rich, pungent paste, adding an intense layer of umami to the dish.
The pork belly is first cooked and cut into domino-sized pieces. They are then marinated in a flavorful prawn paste before being deep-fried to perfection. The result is a golden, crispy exterior that yields to a juicy, savory burst of flavor with every bite. It’s quite irresistible. Personally, I’d love the prawn paste to be even more pungent for that extra kick. But I can see how that might be a bit intense for some palates! 4.25/5
If you’re someone who needs a little coaxing to eat your greens, this is the kind of dish that would be less intimidating. Napa cabbage is grilled until perfectly charred, then topped with a decadent mix of miso butter, Parmigiano Reggiano, katsuobushi, and seaweed.
In truth, the charred cabbage is just an excuse to indulge in the rich, savory sauce. While Napa cabbage is commonly used for this preparation, I prefer sugarloaf cabbage. The latter has stems that are sweet and less fibrous. 4.25/5
If you’re a fan of creamy pasta, Chef Willin’s Carbonara Fettuccine is an absolute must-try! It’s hands down the best carbonara I’ve had in recent memory— and that’s saying something, considering we were just in Rome last year. While it’s not a traditional carbonara, Willin’s unique spin on the dish features the addition of crispy pork lard and fresh sweet cream. The result is a sauce that’s perfectly tailored to the Asian palate: not too heavy and very flavourful with a subtle sweetness. Plus, they’re generous with the smoked pancetta, which adds a delicious, irresistible bite to every mouthful. 4.5/5
Any Singaporean would instantly recognize the Singapore Fried Noodles as a nod to our beloved fried Hokkien Mee. Chef Willin has wisely avoided calling it that to avoid direct comparisons. While the flavors are reminiscent, if it were named Hokkien Mee, I’d likely be disappointed. That said, the dish itself is undeniably delicious. The noodles are coated in a rich, flavourful crustacean oil and topped with crispy, fried prawns. That has elevated the entire experience! I would have liked the crustacean flavour to be even more punchy, but that’s just me. 4.25/5
If you’re a fan of Buah Keluak, their Buah Keluak Spaghetti is a dish you won’t want to miss. It features chicken mince combined with Buah Keluak sambal, and the flavors are spot on. However, as someone who enjoys the nut itself, I would have loved it even more if he had included pieces of the unadulterated kernels in the dish. That said, it’s a fantastic introduction for anyone unfamiliar with pangium edule (buah keluak). It is one of the most iconic and unique ingredients in our region! 4/5
This dish is called “Purin” because that is how the Japanese would pronounce “Pudding”. That said, it isn’t even a “pudding”, but rather a pandan-flavoured creme caramel. Nonsensical nomenclatures aside, Willin managed to create a creme caramel with a sublime texture. The classic combination of pandan and gula melaka makes this a must-try dessert to end the meal! 4.5/5
The lava cake had its day more than a decade ago. But I am sure it still evokes nostalgia for those who enjoy the dessert. It’s oozy, chocolatey and the brandied berries provide a nice contrast the the dark chocolate. 4/5
Conclusion
Mai tu liao! Pastaro is hands down one of the best new restaurants I’ve reviewed this year. The delicious sides and thoughtfully crafted fresh pasta dishes, infused with local flavors, make it well worth a visit. And no, I’m not just saying that because Willin is a good friend of mine—this place truly delivers. He is really living up to his mission to “Make pasta great again!” Note: He is not a MAGA supporter. It’s just a blatant borrowing of a catchy catch phrase.
Disclosure
Willin’s a good friend of mine and we always end up paying for each others meals. This one is on him.
