Lisa and I took a short break in Chiang Mai, escaping the hustle and bustle of city life for a few restful days in the mountains of Mae Raem. Surrounded by lush greenery and fresh air, it was exactly the kind of slowdown we were looking for. Chiang Mai is particularly lovely at this time of year (Nov-Dec), with temperatures in the low to mid-twenties. More than once, we found ourselves remarking that it genuinely felt like autumn in a temperate country.
We went with a very deliberate plan – to have no plans at all. No fixed itineraries, no must-eat lists, just letting the days unfold as they pleased. Our catchphrase was “No Time, No Target.” We woke when we woke, slept when we slept, and ate when we were hungry. Not allowing time to become a tyrant was liberating, and so was not having anything we had to do. Of course, being who we are, food still managed to find its way onto the agenda! We ended up visiting a handful of cafés and restaurants that were memorable enough to deserve a mention.
Mae Ream (Rim)
Just a short drive northwest of Chiang Mai city, Mae Raem feels like a different world altogether. Cooler, greener and wonderfully unhurried, it’s a mountain area where mornings are misty, the air is fresh, and time seems to slow down on its own.
We checked in at the Panviman Spa Resort Hotel, set amidst lush greenery and blessed with a lovely spa that immediately set the tone for the stay. The only thing to note is that the resort is built along a steep hillside. So getting up to the rooms can be quite a trek. We quickly became very familiar with calling for the buggy.
Along the winding road up to Mae Raem, we stopped by a few restaurants and cafés worth checking out. Whether you’re heading into the mountains or making your way back down to Chiang Mai city, consider taking a break at some of the spots we’ve listed below.
Fleur Cafe and Bakery – Garden Paradise!
Although I never promised Lisa a rose garden when we got married, I finally did deliver – albeit after 30-plus years. Fleur Cafe and Bakery turned out to be a real oasis along the way up to Mae Raem.
Set within a lush garden filled with colourful blooms, it’s one of those places where the setting does most of the heavy lifting. The restaurant itself is charming, but most patrons quite sensibly choose to sit outdoors, surrounded by flowers, soaking in the cool air and unhurried pace of mountain life.
They have a selection of rather unique teas and a tempting display of cakes, making it an easy place to linger. The food is fine – pleasant, comforting, and competently done. But let’s be honest, you don’t come here purely to eat. You come for the atmosphere, the garden, and the quiet sense of delight that comes from sitting amongst flowers with a cup of tea in hand, wondering why more cafés don’t do this.
Fleur Cafe and Bakery
Tung Lung Soi 4, Mae Raem, Mae Rim District, Chiang Mai 50180, Thailand
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River Rock Cafe – Riverside Dining
River Rock Cafe is an ideal stop when driving up the winding mountain road. Tucked right beside a waterfall, the café offers a wonderfully relaxing setting where you can enjoy a meal while taking in the sound and sight of cascading water.
The menu features a familiar mix of Thai and Western dishes, but don’t underestimate the local food here. The Thai cooking is genuinely impressive. We had one of the best tom yum soups of the trip. This is not just a scenic pit stop; it’s a place worth stopping for in its own right.
River Rock Cafe
83/1 หมู่9 แม่แรม Mae Rim District, Chiang Mai 50180, Thailand
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Nong Hoi Royal Project Restaurant: Unpretentious Farm to Table Food
Located in Mon Jam, just a short detour from the main road through Mae Rim, the Nong Hoi Royal Project Restaurant offers a refreshing farm-to-table dining experience. It is set amid cool mountain air and lush vegetable fields.
Part of the Royal Project, the restaurant showcases produce grown right on site. They are simple yet satisfying Thai dishes such as fresh mixed salads, som tam, and comforting local classics. The views across the surrounding farms and hills add to the charm, making it an excellent stop for a relaxed lunch while exploring Mon Jam and its highland scenery.
We had a really nice deep fried eggplant dish there which is well worth trying. They have a Royal Project Mixed Salad which showcases their salad greens. We didn’t order because it looked like it could feed a cow, or four people! But not every dish was good. The chicken wings were a tad dry.
Nong Hoi Royal Project Restaurant
Mae Raem, Mae Rim District, Chiang Mai 50180, Thailand
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Eden Cafe: Another Garden Oasis
We spotted this café on the way up to Nong Hoi and decided to drop in for a cup of coffee on the way back. That turned out to be a very good decision. Hidden behind the unassuming façade was a surprisingly lovely garden which was wonderfully calming.
They serve coffee and cakes here, best enjoyed slowly while soaking in the greenery and mountain air. Mae Rim is full of cafés like this. Many proudly brewing coffee made from local beans, each with its own quiet charm.
Eden Coffee Monjam
24 Mae Raem, Mae Rim District, Chiang Mai 50180, Thailand
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Strawberry Farm: pick your own strawberries
One of the things you can do while in Mae Rim is go strawberry picking! There are three harvest cycles between October and February. Unfortunately, we visited when the strawberries were still growing on the vines and not quite ready for picking. We were there in early December.
But don’t worry if you miss the harvest. The owner usually makes sure there are strawberries available for purchase so you can still taste them. These may not be from his farm, but they’re from around the area. Thai strawberries tend to be a little pale and whitish, but don’t judge them by their colour. They are surprisingly sweet.
What I really like about this place is that the owner has intentionally planted flowers along the hillside next to the strawberry plantation. It’s purely for visitors to enjoy a tranquil view of the Mae Rim plains while sipping on a cup of coffee. The entrance fee is 40 baht per person, and you can use it to offset your drink.
There are quite a few strawberry farms in the area, but this one is tucked a little further in and is less crowded. It makes for a lovely, peaceful stop – especially if you’re hoping to catch the sunset.
Rai Dao Prakai Strawberry Farm ไร่ดาวประกายสตรอว์เบอร์รีเก็บเองได้
Pong Yaeng, Mae Rim District, Chiang Mai, Thailand
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Chiang Mai
As this was meant to be a relaxing trip, we deliberately avoided the crowded, tourist-heavy areas of Chiang Mai city. Instead, we took things slow and focused on eating well, making our way to a handful of restaurants that stood out enough for us to recommend.
Ginger Farm
If you visit this place expecting to find plenty of ginger, you might be disappointed. It was once a ginger farm. But today, it has been transformed into a restaurant and pleasure farm, where the focus is on farm-to-table dining. The grounds are relaxed and spacious, allowing children to run around and even interact with some of the farm animals.
The food turned out to be very enjoyable. The most memorable dish was the banana flower salad, tossed in a fragrant dressing made from panaeng curry paste that gave it a lovely balance of spice and sweetness. Their corn and pumpkin salads were also well executed, highlighting the natural freshness of the produce. Not only is the food tasty, you leave feeling as though you have done your body a big favour.
Ginger Farm
34/1 Moo 12 Hang Khawe Soi 9 Thawangtan Saraphi Chiang Mai 50140, Thailand
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Chef who found his Ikigai
We had one of the most interesting and truly one-of-a-kind dining experiences in Chiang Mai at Ikigai. This is the sort of place where, five minutes in, you already know you won’t be eating anything quite like this elsewhere. Chef James Noble, who previously worked in a two-Michelin-star restaurant, has clearly walked away from the fine-dining rat race to do his own thing. In Chiang Mai, he grows his own vegetables and cooks food that is wholesome, thoughtful and quietly confident.
But that’s only half the story. Next door, he refurbishes used Japanese knives which are sold at Past Knives. He also manages several Airbnb properties along the same row of houses, and right outside sits a full-sized Boeing 747. Yes, a real one. Technically it belongs to a neighbour, and the “front yard” is more like a plot big enough for a school. It is a sight you don’t see every day.
We chose the 6-course Chef’s Journey which costs 1,500 Baht. Highlights for us included the chicken parfait, crispy pork belly, marinated cod and a very pleasant strawberry daifuku to end the meal.
Chef James even makes his own vinegar and grows his own strawberries. These details might sound small, but they explain a lot about the food. To be sure, don’t expect to find two-Michelin-star cooking there but that’s not a criticism. It’s simply not what he’s trying to do.
For 1,500 baht, you’re paying for conscientiously sourced ingredients, house-made fermented sauces and food cooked with clear intention. Not every dish was completely to our taste, but the meal helped us understand exactly what we’d order from the à la carte menu on our next visit. And yes, Ikigai has definitely gone onto our “Must Return To” list for Chiang Mai.
Ikigai/Past Knife
ตําบล, 203/6, Fa Ham, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50000, Thailand
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Steak of the Day
Bottom: Chef with his wife
If you are looking for a cozy restaurant that serves both European and Thai dishes with a touch of French finesse, then Steak of the Day might be worth checking out. Despite the name, it isn’t really a steakhouse. The name simply reflects the way the menu changes daily, depending on what ingredients the chef manages to source early in the morning.
So, there is no fixed menu. Whatever is being served that day is written on a whiteboard, which is brought to your table for you to browse and order from. We like the fact that there is such a strong emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients. It is clear that French-trained Chef Ray handles the produce with confidence and skill.
One dish that really stood out was the prawns. They were crisply fried and served with a delicate dashi jelly and sweet chilli sauce. It’s a clever combination that brought together Japanese, Thai and French sensibilities on one plate.
Dessert was also delightfully creative. Chef reimagines the familiar Thai mung bean dessert, shaping it to resemble little black pebbles. He managed to turn a humble traditional sweet into something playful and visually striking.
Steak of the Day
399/52-53 หมู่ที่ 1 แม่ริมพลาซ่า Rim Tai, Mae Rim District, Chiang Mai 50180, Thailand
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Conclusion
Overall, we had a lovely time exploring the Mae Rim region of Chiang Mai. December turned out to be a particularly pleasant time to visit, with the cooler weather allowing us to bring out our light jackets. It’s a welcome change from the tropical heat.
While the food may not be as outstanding as what you can find in Bangkok, what Chiang Mai offers instead are sincere, authentic farm-to-table experiences that feel closely connected to the land. As always, we left wishing we had a few more days to rest, relax and discover a few more eateries!
