It took me almost twenty years, but I finally realised what makes Golden Mile “Special” Yong Tau Foo special!
When I posted my first story back in 2006, I got there too late and missed out on some of their more popular items. I vowed to return again soon — though that “soon” turned out to be 19 years later! (kinda reminds me of a popular Chinese song)
Oh, I’ve tried over the years, but my clinic sessions never let me get there while their cauldron was still full of stuffed goodies. And on the one day I could go in the morning (Sun), they were closed! On this most recent trip, I finally made it just in time to snag their last two bowls — at around 1.30pm! (They tell me they were having an exceptionally slow day!)
Second Generation Hawkers
This time, I had the privilege of speaking with Mr. Chng Fang Khiang, 62, who’s been serving their legendary Yong Tau Foo since completing his National Service in the late 1970s. But the story begins even earlier!
His father, Mr Chng Siew Hern, first started selling their stuffed delicacies from a humble pushcart along Jalan Sultan in 1958.
Can you imagine? Back then, you’d get three pieces for just 10 cents! When they moved to Golden Mile Food Centre in 1975 (the year it opened), inflation had brought the price to seven pieces for $1. That was still an incredible bargain by today’s standards.
So, what exactly makes this Yong Tau Foo so special?
For starters, it’s Teochew-style — and that’s quite rare. Yong Tau Foo is usually considered a Hakka dish and is traditionally made with a mix of pork and fish paste.
Although, plenty of places actually serve Yong Tau Foo made with fish paste, it is basically a modified Hakka version made without the pork.
But here, the Chng family has been proudly serving a Teochew version. And that means using only fresh yellowtail fish for a classic Teochew style fish paste.
While many stalls today claim to be “handmade,” that usually just means the stuffing is done by hand. The paste itself is made in a factory. Not here.
Mr Chng personally visits the market to pick up the fish each morning before arriving at the stall. Then, the fish is minced, beaten into a springy paste and then left to soak in brine. It’s a traditional process which gives the paste its signature bounciness.
Even the soup is unmistakably Teochew! It is light, clear, and flavoured only by the soaking water of the fish balls . This allows the natural sweetness of the yellowtail to shine through. (See our video recipe here)
The way they still serve the Yong Tau Foo is also seriously old school. The items are all simmering in a cauldron of flavourful fish broth! Something that you don’t see in many places nowadays!
The only item they have that has a minced pork stuffing is their fried wanton, which is also very popular. It is unfortunate that I only got to try it at the end of the service as I can imagine that it would have been even better if it were freshly fried!
Conclusion
A true hawker legend thatl has stayed faithful to tradition since 1958. What sets them apart is their unwavering commitment to making their Teochew style fish paste fresh daily. For those seeking old school Yong Tau Foo, this is it! But you have to get their early in order to experience their whole range of stuffed stuff!
