Top Ten Things to Eat in Singapore: The Hawker Edition

I have been asked on many occasions by overseas visitors for suggestions on what to eat when they visit Singapore.  After writing this blog for the last five years and having published a book as well as an App on hawker food, I feel that I am ready to pen some thoughts on 10 things that any visitor coming to Singapore must eat.

The final push was when I recently visited the US to deliver my lecture on the History of  Singapore's Hawker Food.  I was partly there on a food trip and needed a resource that would enable me to capture the gastronomic heart of  Boston, Chicago and Ann Arbour, but it was really hard to find what I want.  So I am writing this article with us culinary discoverers in mind.  I hope I have created a literary Amuse Bouche to whet your appetite for Singapore's rich Hawker Heritage.

Ieat Hawker App Tips: Searching for Stalls nearby

Thanks to everyone for downloading the ieat Hawker App and for making it No.2 in the App Store!

From the feedback I am getting, it seems that lots of people still don't know how to use the nearby function properly. We are working to make it even more easy to navigate in an upcoming update.  But in the meantime, the following screens will explain how to show up all the nearby stalls on the map.




Whenever you see the map, all you have to do is to Press and Hold until all the other Red Pins showing stalls nearby pop up!

AR Rahman: Singapore should have a Teh Tarik Institute Too!

Teh Halia

Following my video blog on how to make Teh Tarik, I am more determined than ever to find that elusive cup of condensed milk pleasure in Singapore.

I must admit that when it comes to Teh Tarik, the Malaysians trump us hands down.  They have made Teh Tarik into an institution... literally.

My OSU Food Trip to Ann Arbor, Chicago and Boston: Steaks, Burgers, Pizzas and Lobster Sandwiches!

The Overseas Singaporean Unit (OSU)

Lots of people have been asking about what I did last week in the US, so I decided to write a trip report now that I have finally gotten over my jet lag.

In case you are wondering what the OSU is, well, it is basically a special unit set up under the Prime Minister's Office whose mission is connect with Singaporeans who are living overseas.  They are responsible for such things as "Singapore Day" where hawkers are flown halfway across the world to fry Char Kway Teow for Singaporeans living in New York.    They have offices in the US, UK, China and Australia, so if you have friends or relatives in those countries, get them to sign up for the various activities that they organize.  If they are half-hearted, just tell them that as long as they speak Singlish, it's FREE!  That should usually get a favorable response if they are still a true blue Singaporean at heart!

Temasek Indian Rojak: Not one, not Two but three Types of Prawn Fritters!

You like prawn fritters?  I think they are one of the bests way to enjoy prawns because the whole prawn if fried so crispy that you eat the whole creature, shell, head, tomally and all.  And that is where you get to enjoy the maximum flavour that a single prawn can provide.

People go gaga over gigantic prawns.  Big prawns certainly make headlines, but it is the small prawns that are really tasty.  Go into a Japanese restaurant during the Sakura prawn season and those Sakura prawn fritters will blow you away with their intense crustacean flavour.  In Penang, they extract the prawny goodness from tiny shrimps to produce a Prawn noodle soup with ooompph and of course locally, small dried shrimps are what powers the umami engine of a good bowl of laksa.

Ieat Hawker App: Finding Singapore's Best Hawker Food on Mobile is now easier than ever!

Click here to download from App Store

After months of work,  I am glad to announce that the ieat Hawker App is finally ready for download at the  App Store!

Based on the blog,  I have designed this App so that you are able to find Singapore's Best Hawker fare on your mobile at the flick of a finger.  The App will give you  instant access to over 460 hawker stalls, each one with the address and opening times and linked to the blog post. 

Centre Satay Bee Hoon: What's so difficult about making Satay Bee Hoon?

Satay Bee Hoon

I guess you might be wondering what is so difficult about making Satay Bee Hoon that there are so few hawkers willing to do it?  Well, for one, the sauce is not easy to make.  To make a good Satay sauce, you need to roast the peanuts with the skin on, then remove the skin and grind it into sandy powder and then slow cook it with 15 different ingredients in order to achieve that smooth, nutty, spicy, sweetly goodness.

Graze at Martin No. 38: Just what is "Modern Australian" Dining?

Review by Holydrummer, Photos by ieat

Pan-seared barramundi, chorizo broth, watercress, salad of ruby red grapefruit, avocado, mint $34

Ever tried to pin-point what exactly comes to mind when you try to identify Australian Cuisine? Notwithstanding the fact that half of Singapore (I might be exaggerating) have - at one point of their lives - studied/stayed/are still residing in Australia, I tend to think we Singaporeans are still warming up to the idea of Modern Australian cuisine, no?

Enter Graze at Martin No.38 and award-winning Executive Chef Chris Donnellan (Young Chef of the Year 2009, The Age Good Food Guide) to define it all.

Number one, absolute freshness. The use of native ingredients is essential since Australia is renowned for their quality produce. So if one had to specially import their fish from Australia to uphold that standard, it is done. The Barramundi is perfectly pan-seared and deftly finished with a crispy skin, while the fillet is still just right; firm yet flakes on the slightest pressure of the fork. 4.25/5

Their other seafood dishes, especially the "4 Jumbo tiger prawns, skinny frites, house sea urchin butter, chopped parsley, ruby red grapefruit" ($34) easily stand out and shine on freshness alone with the sea urchin butter underscoring the umami factor. 4/5

300g Kurobuta pork chop $36

Next, 100% pure and unpretentious cooking, just like the pork chop. Rich-tasting flavours in-your-face, simply executed. This Victorian Berkshire pig certainly did not die in vain! The dish is divine - no doubt, yes, you could get to Heaven much earlier. Not recommended for those who always complain about "FAT" and "CHOLESTEROL" (bad taboo words in my dining dictionary) at the dinner table. 4.5/5

1kg black 250 day grain-fed Angus rib with chimichurri $128

Why "Graze", I hear you ask? Surely, it is for this pièce de résistance! This huge steak showcases another hallmark of Australian cuisine - their serving size and humongous portions! Save for the slightly different doneness (it's a big piece to handle; tends to get more rare toward the bone), this is how beef should be like - grilled till charred on the surface and medium-rare to medium within. Unless you are more than capable to challenge for 1kg of cow (Australians need not apply), this Aussie cut is ideal to share for two or more. 4.25/5

White Sherry and Strawberry Trifle, Chocolate coated pumpkin seeds $14

Ieat enjoyed the trifle very much as it triggered his memories of tasting them while living in Sydney. However, all I vaguely remembered while trying it was the very well soaked spongecake doused in rum to deliver the desired alcoholic punch. The really delightful accompaniment were the surprising sides of crunchy chocolate-coated pumpkin seeds, providing great contrast for this dessert. 4/5

"Black and White" Valrhona dark chocolate cream, vanilla bean ice-cream. Compote of mango, rambutan and mangosteen with a sesame snap $15

Where simplicity is, sophistication must be, too. Remember the ultimate question of "Chocolate VS Vanilla"? Once upon a time when there were only these two ubiquitous flavours at the ice-cream parlour... Well, while you discern and draft your dessert dissertation, you can detect a myriad of textures at play here to tingle the taste buds with the duo of fresh and freeze-dried fruits. 4/5.

"Watermelon and Tapioca Soup" Summer fresh berries, mascarpone, mint, crushed ginger nut cookie $14

This soup might sound strange to some but the hints of mint rendered it refreshing and light on the palate (read: not too sweet). It also helps that the colours lend a very visually pleasing effect on the eyes too. You can detect hidden accents of spice that surprisingly sits well with, well...water-melon. 4.25/5

Conclusion

I reckon Modern Australian cuisine, in forming its own unique identity, can be likened to a pot-pourri of culinary cultures coming together as it is increasingly influenced by the influx of immigrants over time, just like Singapore.  At Graze, this is evident in the liberal use of spices and the brilliant combination of ingredients, coupled with both simple and sophisticated cooking techniques with the aim to highlight the fresh quality produce. 

Graze at Martin No.38

38, Martin Road, S239059
Lunch: Tues to Fri 12noon - 3pm

Dinner: Tues to Sat 6pm - 11pm
Brunch: Sat & Sun 10am - 4pm

Closed on Monday & Sunday dinner
65091680  www.graze-martin38.sg

This was a media invite

Heng Gi Goose and Duck Rice: True Heritage Braised Duck

When you talk about braised duck, this is the one stall that is a bit of a legend in Singapore.  The old man has been selling braised duck for over 60 years since he was a small boy helping out at his fathers stall along Tewchew street.  Before Tekka market closed for renovations, I heard that he was planning on retiring, but fortunately, the stall is still operating now with some young blood under the watchful eye of the old master.

Braised Duck, Pig's Head and Tofu

The braising sauce here is the Teochew style, watery type.  But it is far from insipid.  This is the kind of dish which has baulked at the Health Promotion Board's advice of having less oil and less salt and you just have to have some rice or porridge to go with it.  Not many stalls dare make it with such power nowadays, opting instead for a milder, sweeter approach.  But if you want to taste Teochew Lor, the way that it used to be, then this must be it.


Pig's head meat

It's a pity that they don't sell goose anymore, even though the signboard still reads "Goose".  Due to AVA restrictions, it is not possible to get fresh geese anymore.  However, they still have pig's head meat here which is excellent.  In case you haven't tried pig's head before, you should!  The texture of pig's head is unique.  It's slightly chewy but in a gummi bear sort of way and makes for marvelous mastication!   4.5/5 The duck that day was just a tad dry and a bit on the tough side, but still very flavourful. 4.25/5



Conclusion

We almost lost this heritage hawker stall!  Thankfully, some younger hawkers have taken over the reins from the old master and keeping the tradition alive.  The old man still keeps watch over the stall and you can sometimes see him sitting around there with his friends.

Heng Gi Goose and Duck Rice
Tekka Centre, 664 Buffalo Road, #01-335
63960969
8.30am to 2.30pm
Closed on Mondays

Economic Mixed Vegetable Rice: Longest Queue I've seen for Teochew Porridge

Teochew Muay Spread

There are a handful of hawker stalls in Singapore which can be classified as "intimidating" and this is one of them.  There are many reasons why a particular stall can be intimidating.  For instance, Sin Huat was rather intimidating as rumors abound of $1000 bills to eat the famous Crab Bee Hoon there.  But just the rumour of a $1000 bill would not necessarily be intimidating unless you also have a compulsion to go try it yourself.  Other Stalls can be intimidating because of their infamous queues.  Eng Seng Black Pepper Crabs comes to mind.  Urban legends abound about how one has to ring up during lunch to order the crabs, then still having to line up at 5pm for a table.  But as a serious foodie, you feel you need to try them at least once since everyone raves about the Black Pepper Crabs there!  So it is the dynamic between fear and compulsion that makes a stall intimidating, a quality that only a handful of hawker stalls in Singapore can boast about.

Our stall today falls into the 2nd category.  When I asked around about what was good to eat in Ang Mo Kio, this Teochew Porridge stall invariably gets mentioned but always accompanied by a warning that the snaking queue spans four shop spaces and that people start lining up for the food by 5 plus for their opening at 6.45pm!  As an obsessive-compulsive foodie, I had to find out for myself what the fuss was all about.


Minced Pork with Tau Cheo

In a nutshell, I came away wondering why the queue was so long.  The food was good but there are many other Teochew Muay restaurants with shorter queues which would have given me a better Teochew Muay experience.

The Braised Duck was supposed to be their signature dish. The Lor (Braising Sauce) was robust but the duck was a little dry and tough.  3.75/5.  The Porridge water (Ahm) lacked enough starchy smoothness.  Pomfret was good but really not a class ahead of other stalls with pre-steamed fish.  Of course it can't beat one that has been steamed to order.  4/5.  The fishcakes were not homemade, but outsourced so there was not much to rave about.  There was one dish that did have a bit of a spark though and that was the minced pork with Tau Cheo (fermented soy beans).  It was bold, it was salty and it made you want to eat more porridge. 4.25/5

Conclusion

I know that a lot of fans are going to be upset with this blog entry, but I really came away not knowing why the queue was so long.  Perhaps it was just an off day for them.  But judging from their popularity, I think it warrants another visit at a later date, but finding the motivation is difficult with the prospect of a 35 minute wait.

So are you a fan of this stall?  Do write in to tell us why you are willing to stand in line for the Teochew Muay?


Economic Mixed Vegetable Rice
Blk 341 Ang Mo Kio Ave 1,
Teck Ghee Court Stall 13
11.30am to 2pm
6.45pm to 10pm
Closed Mon

Tian Wai Tian Fish Head Steamboat: Why Fish Head Steamboat always have to wait so long?

Pomfret Steamboat (small) $22

I must have visited this coffeeshop countless of times in my ten years studying at St Andrew's School.  It is located just across the PIE from the school and I remember days when I would walk down to the coffeeshop to buy, what was to me, the best big pau in the world.  In my mind, it is still the best big pau ever and had pieces of chicken with the bones still attached in it!  Too bad they stopped selling it sometime ago.  I hope it wasn't because someone choked on the chicken bone!

Anyway, I never knew about the Fishhead steamboat at the time.  Tian Wai Tian started selling their Fishhead steamboat there in the early eighties so they were newbies when I was in school.  Fast forward 20 odd years later and Tian Wai Tian now controls a Steamboat empire with a few branches around the island.  But those who are familiar with the original shop will tell you that the steamboat here is still the best!  And why not? The original Lau Ban Niang who started it when she was a young lady is still at the shop keeping an eye on everything.

Westlake King of Kong Bak Pau Makan Session

Photos by Joao and Cactuskit

Many thanks to every who came for the Westlake Makan Session!  We had a 100% turn out which was excellent.  It was a great night of food and fun and I think some even da pau extra Kong Bak Pau back!

The Kong Bak Pau and Black Pepper Crabs were the highlights for me.  If you attended the makan session, please do share your thoughts for the evening!

Thanks to Soundman and OMark for helping to organize the session and Cactuskit and Joao for taking the photos!

Our next makan session will be in November.  Crab Fest II:  Five Crabs and One Lobster!  Hope to see you all there!

Jin Jin Dessert: Gula Melaka as thick as hot fudge!

Power Cendol $1.50

I awoke today to the wonderful news that the NEA will be building new Hawker centres after 26 years!  This is great news for all Singaporeans as these Hawker Centres will be run by NEA on a "not for profit" basis rather than being outsourced to commercial operators.  Best news is that barren culinary deserts like Pasir Ris and Punggol will at last get a Hawker Centre.  Now, the land that has been shrouded in darkness has seen a glimmer of light!

Some people might question whether there will be enough people who actually want to be hawkers?  Well, I have personally met some new hawkers recently and I am confident that there are Singaporeans out there who have a passion for good food and an entrepreneurial spirit who have what it takes to become a Hawker Star.  Our "dabbler of desserts" today is just one such person!

Hougang 6 mile Famous Muah Chee: Artisanal Muah Che; The Last One Standing

Muah Chee $2, $3, $5

Did you get to eat freshly made Putu Mayam before it finally disappeared from the streets of Singapore?  I didn't, and just like the Tasmanian Tiger, the artisanal Putu Mayam man its now extinct. (But just like the Tasmanian Tiger, I always hear rumors that there might be one still around!)

Now, you might not get to eat freshly made Putu Mayam, but you do have a last chance to eat freshly made Muar Chee!  This stall in Hougang is most probably the last of its kind.  It occupies a small little stand in a nondescript little coffeeshop in Hougang and it looks so ordinary that I am sure some people must have walked across it countless of times without stopping to try some.   You can't blame them really.  Most of us are probably more familiar with the Muah Chee that is sold at the kiosk in the Shopping Centres where Muah Chee is just one of the many items on sale.  Most of these places take their Muah Chee and ground peanuts from a supplier and simply toss them together.  How exciting can it be? 

Teh Tarik in Ann Arbor, Chicago and Boston next week!

Click here to read

I shall be making a trip to Ann Arbor, Chicago and Boston next week to speak at the Sg Buzz event.  If you know of any friends in those cities, do let them know about it!  If all goes well, I might be making some Teh Tarik for everyone!

Shi Wei Xiang HongKong Tim Sum: Happiness is finding something Cheap and Good!

Fried Yam Puff (Wu Kok) 70 cents ea

Happiness is finding something good to eat.  Delight is finding something good to eat that is cheap!

What can be better then to enjoy a breakfast dim sum with the family, pairing your Siew Mai with a cup of strong kopi while reading your news on the iPad, and still spend less than the price of a main meal at a restaurant? Interested?  Why of course you are!  "Cheap and Good" is an irresistible motivator of the Singaporean psyche.

Heaven's Indian Curry: Manna from Heaven indeed

Appam $2.50

I was watching Foodage and reminicing about the good old days when I saw them featuring Putu Mayam!  That got me all excited 'cos its the kind of food my mom used to buy home from the market when we were kids. I was that in the good old days, Putu Mayam was actually still being made fresh in Singapore.  However, that tradition has all but disappeared by the 90's.  So nowadays all the Putu Mayam you eat comes from a packet, which, I guess makes you wonder why you would pay someone to basically take something out of a plastic bag, put it on the plate with sugar and coconut and charge you for it?  The same logic probably applies to buying Milo from the coffeeshop.

Red Star: Of Dim Sum Trolleys and Heavenly Kings

If you are a child of the 60's and 70's, lunch at the Red Star restaurant will transport you back to the days when the only stress was whether you get to be chosen for the soccer team during recess time.

Red Star is the kind of restaurant that some people would love while others would complain that the food just cannot make it.  It is old school Dim Sum served on trolleys and the only Dim Sum I knew of when I was growing up.  Truth be told, the taste and style of the Dim Sum probably wouldn't appeal to the new generation of Singaporeans who have grown up eating Dim Sum picked from a menu.  But for the old boys and girls, this is the kind of place where you go to reminisce about the good old days and Mommy, Daddy, Ah Gong and Ah Mah.